Ed Hitzel's Restaurant Magazine
"The best Chinese food we have ever sampled... Soup-infused dumplings were the heart of an impressive meal, whose sauces and textures will wow you."
Courier-Post review by Adam Erace
A rare surprise on the menu of the Cherry Hill restaurant goes Philadelphia’s Chinatown one better.
For 10 straight days last June, all I heard about was xiaolongbao. This is not a person, nor a place. Xiaolongbao is the Chinese treasure better known as soup dumpling and it's what my cousin, a notoriously picky eater, existed on for two weeks visiting Shanghai.
A specialty of Shanghai, broth-filled dumplings aren't the most common Chinese menu item stateside, not even in Philadelphia's Chinatown.
Never having been to Shanghai, I can't comment on whether Hong Kong Fusion's xiaolongbao ($5.95) are as transcendent as the ones my cousin gobbled on her trip, but they sure are transporting.
The outstanding asparagus soup for two ($8.95), is a surprise amid the more typical liquid options (hot and sour, wonton). You could taste the vegetable in every spoonful, complemented by bits of tofu and crabmeat, almost twins in the broth, both so sweet and silky you couldn't tell them apart. Stunning.
Still, Hong Kong Fusion's version of the staple was miles better than most, a huge plate of beef so light and delicious I finished it, despite already being stuffed by some of the snappiest Sichuan green beans ($8.95) I've ever had.
While traditional Sichuan and Cantonese are the menu's primary focus, Chen does make the occasional detour to other Asian countries such as Thailand and Japan. The latter offers clean sesame-crusted ahi tuna ($14.95) dressed with wasabi and soy. Mexico contributes a riff on fried ice cream involving vanilla cake crumbles baked into a fragrant, toasty golden shell ($5.95).
As indulgent as the ice cream was, I almost prefer the dazzling raspberry sorbet ($3.50). The scoop, vivid and magenta, was so refreshing it felt as if it was summer. I would go back for that alone.
Fortunately, Hong Kong Fusion is so inexpensive, I could go back, order all the same dishes, plus a few extra, and still leave feeling like I got a deal.
Courier-Post review by Adam Erace: Overall 4 Stars